We posted articles on modeling techniques for acrylic and gel nails, as well as the nuances of their polymerization, filing and correction. This time we will talk about the features of working with C-bend.
C-bend is the lower part of the arch from one side of an artificial nail to the other, if you look at the nail from the end (from the side of the free edge). The ability to compress C-bend is directly dependent on the shape of the natural nail. It is proved that a properly and clearly formed C-bend makes the nail stronger. The flat plate is more vulnerable than the “tube”, into which the artificial nail turns after compression. C-bend visually narrows the nail, significantly improving the appearance of hands with wide nails. The norm of the C-bend for the salon nail is 25-30% of the range, the competitive criteria suggest 35-50% (photo 1.2). A poorly compressed C-bend threatens not only the loss of additional strength. With improper compression, there is a high probability of sawing the sides, which spoils the appearance of the nail and deprives the master of additional points in the competition. When modeling French nails, there are also subtleties. When filing a badly compressed nail, you can easily damage the smile line: cut down elegant “antennae” or get a marble effect of white color as a result of prolonged and improper manipulation of the file (it reveals defects of the ball, which is placed on the brush and then laid on the nail). In addition, if the nail is compressed incorrectly, the master tries to correct the situation by filing it. At the same time, even the perfect white acrylic is grinded, its density is reduced and an “artificial marble effect” appears. Thus, a correctly compressed C-bend ensures durability and elegant appearance of the nail, allows you to hide the natural defects of the nail plate, and also brings success in competitions in modeling and design of nails (3). When filing a properly clamped nail, it is recommended to hold the file along the central axis of the nail; or tilt it 5 degrees, slightly narrowing the free edge, in order to get perfectly straight sides that extend from a side roll in a straight straight line
There are several ways to compress the C-bend, and, accordingly, there are a variety of materials and tools for this
To achieve the desired result and not to give the client discomfort, you only need to work with a free edge.
Today, gels of almost all manufacturers are rather plastic. Gel nails, like acrylic, you need to start to compress around the middle of the process of polymerization. The instructors advise that you place your hand in the UV lamp for about 30–50 seconds, then squeeze the C-bend, and place the hand in the UV lamp again. Remember that with acrylic modeling it is enough to fix the desired bend with tweezers or fingers, and when working with the gel, the compression is carried out in several stages. Typically, the time of complete polymerization of light gels is approximately 3 minutes. If you work with colored gels of saturated colors, then their polymerization will take place
Nail art instructors do not give any special recommendations on C-bend compression when working with acrylic design. After applying a transparent acrylic, you can begin working with C-bend, shape, filing, as in any other modeling. However, it must be remembered that the thicker the finished nail is (together with the substrate, the design elements and the overlap), the more difficult it will be to make the correct C-bend. If ultimately the acrylic nail is too thick, it will inevitably crack when squeezed. Therefore, you need to ensure that the substrate design and the pattern itself were as thin as possible. At first glance, the task seems impossible: to keep such a number of details in sight. Nevertheless, the practice and professional courses will help to work out the rhythm at which you can fully control your work, planning each stage. At nail design competitions, a properly executed C-bend will be able to bring additional