Many cyclists know the method of replacing the transmission kit with alternating three chains every 500-1000 km, it helps to balance the wear of the cassette teeth and the front stars, and as a result get a greater mileage of these components.
For beginners, this will be useful information, so first, let’s agree on how the alternation of chains can increase the resource components. We will talk exclusively about mountain bikes, wear road and road bikes we leave outside of this article.
Why do we even have to change the stretched chain – even if it slowly taps through the teeth of the cassette, but this does not affect the speed. Ideally, this is true, but in practice, the load on the transmission is uneven, the teeth are pierced in different ways, and as a result, when the force on the pedals begins, the chain begins to break down on neighboring stars, which makes the ride a torment.
Why does the bike chain and cassette wear out
If you put a new chain on a heavily machined cassette, this will not help, because due to the mismatch of the distance between the pins and the developed teeth, the chain will still jump on the neighboring stars of the cassette. Change worn components need to be assembled, with the exception of the front stars – they are going through several sets of “chain-cassette.”
Cassette stars are the weak link only when the distance between the pins (axes) of the chain links has increased (the chain has been stretched) and the pins fall into place not perfectly, gradually changing the tooth profile.
As long as the chain is OK, the star practically does not wear out, that is, if we changed the chain immediately, as soon as the inter-pin distance increased slightly, then it would be possible to ride on one cassette for decades.
Full of examples, when the chain began to ride on the cassette on the run of only 1000 km, and given the cost of these consumables, the bike turned into a very expensive hobby. Therefore, cunning people have come up with a way to balance wear – on the one hand, we have a fast-wearing chain, and on the other, a reliable, but very strongly chain-dependent, cassette.
Replacement in the “three chains”
If you have a set of three chains, and each 700 km to put them in turn, then the first 2100 kilometers of this set will be almost without wear. On the second lap, the chains will gradually begin to stretch, but still within the limits of the allowable, giving in total a trouble free run of 4,200 km.
The third circle for the chains will be on the verge of the red zone, when the cassette’s teeth irreversibly run through, so the cyclist, having skated the next 2100 km, does not wait until the transmission starts to jump, throws out the cassette and three chains, buying a new set.
The replacement interval of 700 km is taken as an indicative one; it was found out by experience on the forums that for a mountain bike used for its intended purpose, it is 700 km that is the most optimal value to balance the wear of consumables.
The interval can be more or less depending on the conditions of skiing – if you drive through the park filled with water in the fall, or even worse, you have to drive on wet sand tracks, then your circuit may show the first signs of wear after 500 km, so it’s good to have household wear gauge , The thing is simple, but it will last a lifetime.
Do I need this headache
Surely someone will now say: “The problem is exaggerated, I have been kata for the third year on the same chain-cassette, the flight is normal.” I do not argue, it also happens that wear is an extremely individual thing, very much dependent on loads, riding style, transmission maintenance and habitat. I will cite an excerpt from the message of my reader, who believes that the replacement in the “three chains” is an extra headache and you can do without it:
“I often ride around the forest and at first, too, like everyone else, I changed the chains in a circle. But after a couple of seasons I got tired of it, and I found a way to avoid frequent replacements. Why does the chain wear out, because the dirt gets into the attachment points of the link axles and bores millimeter gaps there. If this dirt is removed in a timely manner, then the wear will drop dramatically.
I started after each pokatushki, no matter how short it was, to carefully clean the chain with an aerosol to clean motorcycle chains. WD40 is also suitable. After that, the chain is wiped with a cloth and each link is dug through according to the season and conditions with bicycle grease. This is a ritual and takes only 5-7 minutes of my time.
Now about the results. I have a chain of Shimano HG53 and I do not remember which cassette from Shimano, at the moment the kit has already covered almost 5000 kilometers, mainly it is a forest, primers, parks. Wear gauge is approaching
It can be said that such frequent cleaning and lubrication is also a crap, but personally I can’t even compare it with a regular change of chains in a circle and the need to monitor mileage and wear. ”
Here is an opinion. Write in the comments what you think is a big headache – changing the chain every 700 km or daily cleaning-lubrication.
How to reduce bike chain wear
So, the main factors of wear:
- Dirt and moisture in the joints of the chain, especially abrasive in the form of sand and dust. Clean regularly with any kerosene liquids.
- Timely lubrication. Usually we lubricate when the chain starts to whistle, but it’s too late. It is better to take as a rule to drip grease every 100 km or after each pokatushki.
- Riding with a bias. The chain in a twisted state wears out much faster, so try to choose gears so that the imbalance is minimal.
- “Chunk” standing uphill. Excessive load on the transmission wears the chain, it is better to pick up the gear lower and drive up the hill while sitting.
I myself changed for a long time in the “three chains”, but in the end I refused it, I will try to explain my position about the use of consumables. This is just my opinion, but I think that I should ride a bike, and not him on me.
One time on the forums, people said that chains Campagnolo Record , live much longer Shimanov analogs (Campagnolo / SRAM / Shimano chains are interchangeable). I also tried it – hooray, everything is as it is written on the forums. However, I did not clean and lubricate the transmission every day. I don’t even speak about the highwayman; Kampa has worked there for more than 10,000 kilometers with me and continues to work for the new owner without hints of overshoot.
It would be interesting to find out whether you are changing the transmission in the “three chains” or somehow cope with the problem of wear. I emphasize that we are talking about mountain bikes in their natural habitat. If you are driving around a city or a highway, then of course, you didn’t encounter that very feeling when your brand new chain on a brand new cassette began to jump literally one thousand kilometers away. The feeling, I tell you, is extremely negative. &# 128578; I want to do this:
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The figure incorrectly shows exactly where the inter-spin distance increases. Where you are shown, it will not change exactly (pins are pressed into the cheeks). But between the two adjacent external cheeks distance really increases with time
Anton, as it seems to me, these are not so important details. &# 128578; Although formally you are right, of course, measure the caliber between the cheeks.
Anton “And so, too, yes, I bought new ones, but threw out the old ones.”
so for the price of one Kampa chain is clearly worth less than three Shimanov. And it goes almost as much, just do not need to change in a circle.
“Washing the chain with an aerosol” does not remove even half of the dirt it contains, it is easy to be convinced of this by removing the freshly washed chain and throwing it into the can of kerosene. Plus to this – the dirt in this way scatters on the bike, on the floor, on the surrounding objects. And also a steady smell – is needed from every day, especially if you do not have a garage? In addition, the aerosol is not at all free, if you pour it actively, you will fly out into the pipe.
Here, oddly enough, it may be easier to change the circuit – the operation takes a couple of minutes, and already removed the circuit without any problems put in a can of kerosene and how to wash it at any convenient time.
Last season, I just wanted to switch to this method, I drove 400-500 km in a month, and found it acceptable to change the circuit once a month.
However, the arctic fox sneaked up from an unexpected side – the lock (KMC) bought together with the chain first clasped suspiciously easily, and then unzipped at the very first trip; lucky that not far from home and on a flat road, managed to find the halves and assemble. Googled – it turned out, this is a common problem, and with different types of locks.
Therefore – connected the chain and scored on this idea.
Now – only lubrication with gear oil every 150-200 km, and replacement of the chain after 1200-1500 km.
You just need to use the lock is correct, but it is expensive (I do not remember the manufacturer), but removed is put without a tool, there is a special mechanism.
It’s easier for me to buy a new chain and a couple of stars for a cassette, using a KMS X9 chain and an M770 cassette. Chain periodically my gasoline. The chain costs $ 10 and the stars for my cassette are $ 3-4. To compare my expenses, I’ll say that a pack of cigarettes costs $ 10-12. So that….
Also used to go in three chains, did not like. I agree with the conclusion that it is more important to clean and lubricate the chain regularly, especially in winter or in rainy time. I also tried to ride with paraffin instead of grease – on the whole it’s cool, if there is no rain, well, if the chain gets wet, wait for rust,
As a result, now I drive with one chain, which I clean regularly and lubricate with conventional lubricant, in winter it is shimano wet, in summer this eco-lubricant, which Victor advised in some article. Wear is quite predictable and not too big to bother with.
Of course, 3 chains! And even more. This winter, the KMC chain of reagents has passed just 550 km – and the wear is about 1%. &# 128577;
I drove 3000 kilometers on one chain and cassette, there is no critical wear, I think another 1000 will definitely pass without problems, for money it comes out to buy one chain and a cassette is cheaper than three chains and in the end still buy a cassette. My and smear the chain every 100-200 kilometers
Guys, please tell me, is cooking a chain in paraffin justified?
And three parades with paraffin – there will be a mileage of 20-30K? Change paraffin kampy times
Riding in 3 chains + lubricants on a paraffin / wax base, to which the abrasive does not stick, and on mtb for the intended purpose and around the city allows to greatly extend the service life of the transmission. Enthusiasts put a lot of experiments and experiments on this topic and the results are only positive. There are those who groan that riding in 3 chains strained, but using locks, which are easily removed by hands, replacing the chain, provided that paraffin / wax-based lubricants are used, this is a matter of a couple of minutes without the danger of getting dirty. Here is my example: http: //
As I tried to roll on one chain, I set myself a goal not to change to the last .. The result is that, I skated 7000, after which I changed the chain, cassette, and front stars. But I didn’t stop there, and with the same success I skated the same 7000 on the tire. If anyone is interested in the photo of the teeth of the stars lapped to zero, as well as the tire rubbed to the fabric, I can throw off the VK (https: //
Michael, there will be no increase in the life of the chain from the paraffin. It makes sense except for aesthetics – the chain will be clean, except a little dust and all. I did not notice a significant increase in the mileage between the procedures. And if it got under the rain – that’s it. In general, I refused paraffin, although in a particularly dry summer, in principle, it is possible.
How can I wash in an apartment in a jar ?, I once tried with horror I remember this stench … and whether the dirt from the pins is washed away – this is a question, that yes, it’s washed out from the surface, but you need to disassemble and clean it , wipe, and then collect and lubricate.
I started to skate actively last season, but on a single, this problem is not so acute there. In general, I think about the planetary sleeve, I really do not want trouble with switches and tapes, chains.
There is no hassle. Clean / Lubricate the chain every 100-300 km depending on pollution and humidity. The remaining components of frequent maintenance do not require, if you are lazy to drive yourself to the master once a year before the start of the season and check that you need to tighten it up, if you change it, it will change it.
Think of me as a bore, but the chain doesn’t wear at all where you showed it. First of all, the inner surface of the rollers wears out (they are not hot, unlike pins) and the distance between the axes of the chain rollers changes, which is what the device measures. The wear of the cheeks at the point of contact with the pins is small. Dirt does not linger there, the surface is painfully small. But inside the roller dirt accumulates and works there as an abrasive. It is very difficult to wash the dirt out of the rollers with an aerosol, dipping and floundering in a bottle of kerosene. And lubricate there is extremely difficult. In fact, the lubricant used in the manufacture of the chain works there. Even by drowning the chain in a liquid lubricant, it is extremely difficult to get enough oil to get there. Surface tension does not. When the chain is being cooked, the rollers increase slightly and lubricant can get into the gap if there is no dirt there. But how to wash the dirt from there? Even washing with a carcher at a car wash does not guarantee 100% purity – when the roller is rotated with your fingers, the sand creak is felt! But in my opinion, no one is ready to disassemble the entire chain for cleaning and lubrication …
That’s just for such cases, there Ultrasonic washing chains. She scrolls, (there are several rollers), she washes herself. Replaceable cartridges – with detergent (simple kerosene or white spirit goes well for aesthetes), with liquid lubricant (this cassette can be warmed up to 55 degrees. There is a pump and filter in the detergent. When replacing the filter, just set the gasoline for the car. min maximum Minus: Humming. But not much. Smell. But you can on the balcony, in the garage. You need to remove the chain. But they promise an option where it is enough to remove it from the front sprocket.
By the way, about wear. If the circuit is not changed in time, then it starts wildly for me on the cassette after 1500 km, after which it is necessary to change both the circuit and the cassette. At the same time, the cassette externally without any signs of wear and looks like new. I do not know how people manage to roll with erased and pointed chilly.
Without studying, I understood that this “abracadabra” is nonsense. Too many parts are involved in the process, because of this it is not possible to reliably track wear.
I look at the whole thing and even more want the planetary one-chain for almost the whole life of the bike.
Here are my statistics: I drove on the same circuit and cassette for 3 years, I ride almost every working day to work 10 km there 10 back (Total 20 km per day). Operation in winter and summer (all year round), in summer + more pokatushki with friends. Riding is mostly a city (city parks), chain lubrication and cleaning 1-2 times a week. There is a lot of sand in the city (apparently, it is sprinkled in winter), after 3 years of such driving, the cassette + chain + average star are killed in the trash. in the end, the replacement cost me about 3,000 rubles (the tape came out even higher than it was), I think this is not very expensive operation. I did not try to change the chains, but IMHO to replace it once every 3 years and clean the chain once a week is easier than juggling with chains .. Well, where do I get these numbers from, I don’t understand 1500 km 700 km ..?
Hello everyone, I’ll say that, having checked it in practice, I found out that clause 3. Driving with a bias is of paramount importance in the hood of the chain. And this is inevitable with the classic “cassette” transmission, since the cheinlay is never perfect straight. For long journeys for thousands of kilometers, I solved this problem by assembling a bicycle on a planetary transmission with a well-verified chainline. The result, more than 6 thousand on one chain without much zeal for frequent cleaning of the chain.
PS Well, after 1500 km, my chain does not jump, and by the end of 3 years of operation (according to my calculations about 14,000 km), the chain began to ride further, it became just turning and driving became dangerous))
I am for the purchase of inexpensive (but not frankly Chinese) chains and replacement of replacement after 1500-2000 km. http: //
After reading here about Victor chain Campagnolo, ordered this out of pure curiosity. By this time, perhaps, it is already time to change it: at temperatures below -20, skips began on some stars. The chain departed something about 8000 km, sometimes I frankly forgot to clean-smear it (sometimes – VERY long time). Well, what for me three chains? &# 128578;
And on 8 sk. Campagnolo Record does not happen?
It is put on 8, even if it is on 9.
I had a stock chain hg53 and the same cassette, skated 1000-1500 km, were killed in the meat. Changed to a new 950, and she jumps on the tape. I changed the cassette to second-hand shame 5.0 and after it took the chain 970, drove them around, about 600 km each. As a result, the chains were killed, passing approximately 2000, and the cassette was sold. Now everything is new, a chain of kampa. Run 1000+ hints of wear no. I do not plan to drive around in a circle. In general, I can say that shimano categorically do not recommend
there is a golden rule. The cartridge maintains 3 chains to full stretching to 1%. System 3 cassettes.
The problem is sucked from the finger, if you regularly wash / smear the chain and drive with a high cadence, the chain usually lives 6-10 tkm, depending on the operating conditions. From experience: Sramovskie chrome cassettes do not wear out at all (mine has been running for 6 years on it
20 tkm + last 3 years in winter on the machine) there is no wear at all. after heaps of experiments with lubricants, Motul 75W140 showed itself best of all, does not wash out with water at all, “sits” in pins and does not “run away” anywhere!) I throw out the chain when approaching ultimate wear, how to measure here &# 128521; From the observation of other catalts, the chains are torn by those who like to tread on the pedals and not turn &# 128521;
To Svetlov, there is no such rule, all these “rules” are invented by sofa experts!
To DAR, I go constantly on the 9×1 system with a damper, in general, no problems CHYDNT?
And why a sedative?
Kata in 3 chains. I cook in paraffin. Change after about 200-300 km. I go all year round. At the moment, skated 5,000 km, almost all as new.
So for me it has, since last year on the same chain (lubricated with gear lubricant) I drove 3,000 km to stretching 3.00 and discarding the chain. Winter did its job, the reagents ate the chain and the stars.
I drive 3 Shimano HG93 chains and XT cassette. My friend on the same chain of Campagnolo and the same cassette. Both of us are keen on MTB competitions and cheat well in adverse conditions. Conditions are about the same (in competitions together). But a friend travels around the city more and as a result, his mileage is almost twice as much + he is heavier than me by 25 kg. He watches the chain badly, I always scold him that it is not lubricated (he doesn’t have his lubricant, he takes mine). And here’s the trick: while I was rolling three chains, he successfully rolled his only Campagnolo. After this, the desire to roll in three chains was no longer necessary, while Campagnolo alone is cheaper than three Shimano HG93. And one more interesting point, dear readers: if you have not tried, then measure with a ruler for a chain, stretch on a fork, and then remove, wash / boil in kerosene / salyarke … chain and measure again &# 128521; The ruler measures the fractions of a millimeter, and it is difficult to wash the dirt from the inside of the chain, which is why there is a very large error. Every religion has its own superstitions, cycling is no exception.
“.. it goes about mountain biking ..”
Extreme stars on the cassette always have less wear and therefore keep the pitch of the new chain longer. Stretched (on average stars) all three chains will never coincide with it. Inevitably, there will be problems on the extreme stars of the cassette when it will be necessary to drown (sometimes) on the highway or climb a notable hill. And these are the modes of maximum loads. It is then that an understanding of the stupidity of the three-chain adventure on MTB (IMHO) comes. A mountain bike will always require supplies and cash, especially 1 x 11.
Three chains are desirable only on archaic one-speed bikes. If you want to ride on them until the end of life.
“However, the arctic fox sneaked up from an unexpected side – the lock (KMC) bought together with the chain first clasped suspiciously easily, and then unzipped at the very first trip; lucky that not far from home and on a flat road, managed to find the halves and assemble. Googled – it turned out to be a common problem, and with different types of locks. “
KMC has 2 types of locks – disposable and reusable. Disposable when re-installing such an effect and give.
There is such an experience: a set of cassette + 2 chains is bought, depending on the time and conditions of operation, the distance by 10 links is measured by the rod (
120 mm) on the current circuit. As soon as the difference with the “resting” chain becomes 0.2 mm – it’s time to change
7-8 thousand. One more winter is enough.
I roll around in a circle two Shimanov chains, change every 100-200 km (as it will). My chains in plastic three bottles with solvent (in each next bottle the solvent is cleaner), then I lubricate it with ordinary engine oil. I have a cassette 8. Wearing the chain did not measure there is no tool) but there is a shtangel tsirkul I think they can be measured. But not the essence, the essence is that
Accidentally sent) the point is that on the tape after 2 thousand, the beginning sometimes jumped to 6 stars! After reading all the comments above, I can not believe where are the chyse tsifry? I drove 2 thousand with two flails and wore a Starovsk star !! Well this is probably the chains pipets come.
In my opinion, there is a rationality in the circular system;
again, this sore subject))) I drive 300-450 km on the campus group every week, I clean everything every week, and the result is about 2 months already, I have not changed anything, I have driven more than 3 km. in my opinion, it is really better to monitor the purity of the chain and the stars and not steaming with the purchase of these 3 chains and stars.
8 sk. Campagnolo Record campaign does not happen. I would, but I don’t want to leave at 8k. 2 chains for the season (3000km) is not enough. You have to close 2 cassettes and 2 chains for the next season.
I can add my own vision and practice in this matter to the above – I skated after replacing the transmission until it is completely replaced with nine thousand kilometers (in two years) I don’t go in winter, but since climate change and snow is less and less (not counting winter 2016 -17 year) then the season ended on December 21, and the beginning in early March. The transmission together was about $ 80, so for two years I didn’t think that such a replacement would be a big blow to the budget. and the algorithm of cleaning and operation is as follows – I don’t climb into different shit – and if somewhere in the country on the way there will be a puddle of mud on the carriage and it will be possible to pass it by carrying a bicycle on my hands – then I will do it, but I will not force she was at once listening to the crunch of sand … keeping the bike clean in such a way that the state of her outwardly from the store, not counting of course cosmetic kotsok from rare drops from improper parking led on bicycle parking. now about cleaning the transmission – I spend it on purely individual and aesthetic features – when it is obvious that the abrasive can somehow affect the wear thereof (by mileage it can be 80 km – to the cottage back and forth, or 200 km around the city), that is, I do not do the calculation of the run before cleaning – if I see the fringe and the shoulder on the rollers, then I do the cleaning. For this purpose, I have an arsenal of adapters and brushes – there are a couple of plastic pieces for cleaning the cassette between the stars, a long-handled brush, a set of old toothbrushes, a rag in an assortment, and so on. I think that everyone will come to this assortment himself by the imperial way. First, I brush the chain mechanically with brushes as much as possible, then, scrolling through the rags, I ensure that it leaves almost no dirt on the rags. also clear scrolling rollers and cassette. I use hb gloves with a rubber oil and petrol resistant layer – they have proven themselves very well. I spend all these procedures in the apartment in the corridor – I spread the old sheets under the bicycle, and I use them for rags to collect them, collecting the old ones. I use box gear oil for lubrication, I do not use wd40 for cleaning, I lubricate with a plastic oil bottle with a thin sting, trying to get into the joints of the pins. then the rest of the oil is removed by scrolling the chain through a rag .. these are the basic algorithms of my cleansing … it does not give me any moral and ethical inconvenience – I do it with love and ecstasy (I do it for myself and myself), so I think that the criterion of such a run (9 thousand) is just such an attitude as I have to this case … of course, many people are skeptical about my opus – it may very well be, since I have a couple of comrades who cannot even keep a rag properly approaching the transmission .. of course sample The cassette stars resembled ninja asterisks and were already worn out on the system, but changed the transmission when the breakthroughs began, the transmission of the alivio level … so I don’t see any reason to roll in three chains either physically or physically, just the approach to the cleaning process should be with love, I repeat that in time and labor costs it is no work for me and is done “in joy” .. I will only be glad that my experience will benefit the bike community and extend to someone the transmission run to the desired nine thousand kilometers .. BIM for consideration ..
I have an old 8k system and two good chains on a freeride bike, this is enough for 7-8 years at any time of the year. The only thing that the star in front is one for 36 teeth, steel, the cadence is always high. Mileage about 15 thousand, the stars are still alive, the chains, too. Regarding lubrication and cleaning, I also noticed that when everything in shit deteriorates very sharply, I always keep the chains clean and use good lubricant.
Life is pain! Katal on everyone and on everyone: On the first mountain bike it was not soared with chain replacements: there was a hg51 and it broke on the 4500 km run. (according to my statistics, shimano chains are torn on a run of about 5000 km always) I put a new chain – it jumped all the stars, I had to change the cassette and the stars of the system. And he began to ride on 3 chains of shame (they never exploded with me, but they are prone to rust). At the second mountain bike for 6000 km and 2 chains, sham 971 wore down to the state of a saw, the average allystar of the system. Moreover, measurements of the stretching of the chains are within the normal range and the wear of the steel stars of the cassette is minimal. (who invented alludes of the system.) For all his bikes, he chose a strategy with two chains – less confusion, lubrication – paraffin in summer, shimano ptfe in winter. and yes – aluminum star systems – EVIL
Hey. I just buy a new chain once a
First of all, I want to understand how much you are passing through a year: if “20 km a day” to and from work and “in the summer still + pokatushki with friends”, then this is at least 7 thousand kilometers a year, but you write further “By the end of 3 years of operation (according to my calculations, approximately 14,000 km)”. I understand that it is senseless to count up to a kilometer, but 7,000 a year or less than 5,000 is a big difference. Secondly, on what relief do you drive? Perhaps you do not have special ups and downs, and almost no switch. Then it is clear that the wear chain and transmission in general is much less.
I have about the same statistics. The 7-speed chain is cleaned every 3-4 months (3,000 km) and lives about 15,000 km. Cassette (harsh old Shiman) – 30-40,000 km. Old 7-speed chains are practically unkillable. I ride about 9,000 km a year, a little steep ascent, a small one – a lot. But the main factor – which, by the way, Kotovsky forgot to mention – is not switching under load. Great – highway Giant beginning of the 90s.
I agree with Dmitri- on the advice of Victor, was acquired by Campagnolo Record, I drove 3,000 km on it, mainly asphalt, I brush and grease 2 times a week, in the end everything is fine
About cooking in paraffin thought. Just yesterday I asked a question to my friend a highly qualified cycle mechanic. His answer: “Firstly, based on my own experience, this prolongs the resource of the chain, compared with the usual care for it, by 10-15 percent, not more. Secondly, when they drive on a dry chain that is boiled in paraffin, it initially chirps, and it is easy to miss the moment when it is time to do something, which, with normal care, with regular lubrication is easily determined by the sound. ” So I decided not to cook. As for the drive “in three chains,” I missed the moment when it made sense to change from the previous seven-speed cassette, and reached a stretch of 1%. Now put the eight-speed cassette and chain KMC Z8S. I will try to control wear every 500 kilometers, and depending on the current parameters I will decide whether to change the circuit. There are a lot of riding friends (past many thousands of kilometers of cycling trips on different continents) who used to change the chains “in a circle”, but then switched to using higher quality chains, regularly serve the transmission, and now they just change the chain with the cassette after a sufficiently large run . As they said to me, “The difference in money in the end is practically no, and there is less trouble” :).
Using one (or even two) chains has a disadvantage. If something happens to the chain (I, for example, broke a little at the usual quite city ride), then replacing a well-rolled chain with a new one will be problematic. The new one simply will not rise, there will be constant overshoots and you will have to change some decent stars.
Now I drive in three chains and paraffin them (since the main purpose is business trips). Since paraffin requires the removal of the chain, then at this moment and change to the next in a circle. So far for me personally, it looks like the best option.
Maxim Kozub, the main plus of paraffin is not in the extension of the resource or the high quality of the lubricant (both of which seem rather doubtful to me), but in the specific scenario (daily city trips, for example) there is less hassle. The chain almost does not get dirty and the paraffin wax is practically not washed out during long-term parking in the rain. Just once a week you change the chain and that’s it, when you accumulate three, you cook the whole set.
Somewhere it was argued that paraffin is washed out more easily in wet weather, my experience shows the opposite; on road trips (not through mud) this is definitely not the case. Any liquid lubricant I washed out after an hour of travel through a good rain, paraffin wax – no.
At the same time, it feels worse on paraffin than on a freshly lubricated oil chain. But the usual lubricant quickly loses this period of freshly oiled lightness, and paraffin continues to work as it worked.
I confirm. Campagnola walks longer than shame. A friend constantly rolls competitions and rogains in completely non-greenhouse conditions, often through sleeves in shit. Previously, he used the SHORT chains of 991. Then, after reading about the Campagnola on Velomaniyah, I bought it for a try. Two seasons on one chain. Now here is buying a cassette and two campagnols. As he says, it will be possible to forget about the transmission for 3 seasons.
3 8-speed chains + paraffin + mountains (Sevastopol) = at least 10-12,000 km before the start of the jumps (if you take not the cheapest chains – then you can squeeze out 15,000). I still ride 3 paraffin chains from June 19, 2015 – 11,000 km has passed, I will change it in spring.
3 chains, changing through
I roll in 3 chains (Shimano, transmission 3×10), with bicycle lubrication, replacement every 650-700 km, lubrication through 80-120. Conditions – mountain Crimea (mostly). Mileage 9000+ km, wear is already significant, but not yet jumping. Predict reach thousands to 15.
I plan to paraffin the following transmission, for scuffling with the dirt of the subzadolbala. It’s just time to buy a new bottle of solvent, wash it, and then air the apartment from the kerosene stink – only because of this it is worth switching to paraffin &# 128512;
I see no reason to roll in three chains. No gain compared to when you change the chain consistently as wear. My statistics is as follows – now there is still stock cassette SRAM PG-1030. The first chain was the Shimano CN-HG54, 10-speed. She went to replace about 1650 km. The second chain on the advice of the seller from the bike shop put KMC X10L. She went to replace about 2670 km. That confirmed the words of the seller that the CCM chains are more tenacious than the Shimanov chains. The third chain also put KMC X10L. At the moment, the bike mileage with stock cassette 7248 km. What gives us the mileage of the third circuit 2920 km. The chain has become noticeably jump through the middle stars. Apparently it’s time to change the cassette and the chain. For replacement, I bought a KMC X10EL chain and a Shimano SLX 11-36 cassette. In the spring, I finish the chain and cassette until full wear (so far, measuring with a spanner indicates that the chain is still alive) and will change everything at once. Well, what’s the point to roll in three chains? The chain is my machine for washing the chain and lubricates regularly about 150–200 km every time, or if it came under rain, then immediately after the rain. Kata from snow to snow. In Moscow, this is obtained approximately from March to November. Lisaped bought in the summer of 2014.
In pursuit. Saw in the Falcons caliber to measure the wear of the cartridge. It will be necessary to buy and measure the tape before replacing. If it has not yet developed its resource, it can and will survive the 4th chain. We’ll see.
Replacement in 3 chains is good for intensive use of a bicycle, except for commuting and weekend trips, still participating in amateur cross-country races. Where is the frequent gear changes.
I went to 4 chains before last season. Dashed about 12 thousand. The cassette has worn out almost to zero, to sharp teeth) Chains changed and washed every 150-200 km, depending on the weather.
Otkatal on the circuit CMS Z72 1300grn … a couple of speeds on the cassette began to pass (((((Now I will change every 1000km and smear with normal lubricant.
What is the KMC X8 chain resource? Who knows
Victor, given such a variation of wear in the comments, I would add the fifth important factor of wear – cadence. For example, an increase in cadence from commonly used 40-60 to an initially uncomfortable 80-90 significantly reduces the load on the chain, respectively, reduces transmission wear. Together with paraffin, the wear of the chain drops so much that there is no need to roll in 3 chains.
I ride my three chains in my hybrid. I am changing after about 500 km. I also change after heavy pollution. Chains are already on the third lap wear minimum. KMC chains are the cheapest. Chain locks without using – with squeeze work for two minutes. Only the next time you need to squeeze another pin.
I support everyone who does not see the point in a heap of chains. I go to work all year round 10 km a day, yes, not much, but we have in the south at least 50% of the time it rains and mud. Storming the forest plot it is impossible to keep the chain and cassette clean, therefore I wipe the transmission dry on arrival. I lubricate it once a month with lithium grease, do not wash off, hold frost, do not attract much dirt. Chain kms z51 $ 5, the rigidity is great 6 speeds, I use 2-3
And I just put a new chain when the caliber of the chain shows 0.75. And I throw out the old one. This year I will try squirt lubrication!
Thanks for the timely tip! I found a 23-Feb gift in Decathlon. the eldest student grandchild for everyday use practical 6-sk steel rig. “B’Twin KEMEL” 26 ″, black. Exactly what he needs now. Acquisition cheap, but very well chosen. Eye laid immediately, but I doubted for 8 days. I am sure that you have written about him. I make an order!
MWM was glad to help, despite the price was good, the wings were only set and tires changed with a chain. There was a budget hardtail hijacked, so be it, everything crunched from the pedals to the steering wheel. The main thing that your grandson was not a fan of dvuhpodvesov and other show off
Yes. The steeper the Vela, the thinner the chela ..
Hello. I also asked this question about the replacement in 3 chains on the transmission. But I first of all have a quite reasonable question: who invented this replacement at all and how did (by what measurement method) found a certain indicator by which it is necessary to change the circuit with a certain frequency? For me, as Viktor Kotovsky wrote, it would be more correct to focus not on the mileage at which the chain should be changed, but simply its condition until a certain moment (coefficient) of wear. That is, the replacement in 3 chains, as I heard and asked the bicycle mechanics, should occur when the chain is worn out at 50%, that is, at half of its remaining life. And then, this is a multispeed (multi-speed) transmission. Then, after running these 3 chains to such a state, the next chain is taken from the shortest of these 3 rolls in nominal length (just pull them all out completely 3 and see which is shorter than all) and again in the second circle, the second is reached which mean in length remains, then the longest. Then probably change the entire transmission kit (chain, cassette, leading stars) entirely. It is interesting, and if you make a replacement in 5 chains on a multispeed transmission, changing each at 20% of their resource, then roughly speaking rolling each up to 60% of wear and then to completely destroying them, how much will the resource of the entire transmission increase? I don’t know if the same rule applies to singlespeed. About slipping a chain on worn teeth of stars, it seems to me most or almost all are mistaken in the form of the confusion that not a chain can jump, but, for example, a drum when scrolling in a sleeve or a driver (singlespeed if), i.e. when dogs / slots are not hooked and there is a short-term loss of the clutch powertrain tandem “dogs / slots – landing nests.” But maybe my version is wrong. So personally, I still ride the single-speeds in 3 chains, as there is no tool for measuring the stretching of the chain (I want them to get), but just guided by the state of the stars. If the production of teeth and the thickness of their profile is barely a match or barely thicker than a needle (or at least on each of the stars roughly at least one tooth flew off), then it is easier to change the entire transmission than to save the old stars simply killing a new chain. Regarding the washing and lubrication of the chain, I am not guided by the mileage, but by the visual state of the chain. If it is heavily clogged and dry, or even there it is dusty and slightly green or with light rust, then it’s time to grease. What I do when this happens. A not very dirty chain is, of course, easier to wipe and less in time and in lubricating and washing resources, but not every time you want to catch yourself in the permanent concern that after each roller it will be necessary to re-lubricate the chain again. It just depends on the rollouts themselves (frequency, intensity, mileage) + condition of the coverage you are riding in a bike + weather conditions.
I want to share my observations. After I began to paraffin the chain instead of the lubricant, it became cleaner, with the transverse bending, I could not hear the crunch of sand. But since I ride a little and not in winter it is difficult to understand how much wear has decreased.
… well, it is clear that we are now talking only about the Mountain …
,But is not it easier to give up this hemorrhoids with roosters and asterisks, and transfer to the planetar. … well, call it the pop word “shosser” – although, I do not understand: what prevents to collect “mountain led with a planetar” …
After all, at one time, they crossed the “satellite” with the “Ukraine” bike, added an amo fork … and now: “a mountain bike” …
… well, so, implant a manual gearbox into it. and do not # beat the brain: when changing hemorrhoids asterisks …
I drove more than 5 thousand on a cross-country highway with a 7-planetroot … the chain dangles, but apart from the lack of aesthetics, – problem-solving.
Today, the CCM chain is equivalent to the cost of 10-15 packs of cigarettes, you can change it monthly. Compagnolo – about 3 times more expensive, it is enough for anyone for a year.
The average bicycle enthusiast does not drink, does not smoke, does not eat (loses weight), carries himself to work, changes his socks in a circle and
Why, then, to go to work at all, especially in winter?
Refusing to travel by public transport save an average of $ 100 in
Change my chains. In the rotation of the two chains, the third does not have time to get up …. I do not follow the mileage, I change according to wear (according to the template). This method of saving transmissions is relevant for expensive components that are technologically advanced … Does changing the chains of 8SK make sense when the price of the cassette is 700r?) With the price of the cassette from 4500r to 10,000, you start thinking about extending the life of the transmission. As much as possible saves life of transmission so it is paraffin greasings. And the dirt does not stick and is washed under the jet. And it is best to wash the old chain not in a bottle with a curative solvent, but in a bucket of water and laundry detergent. Washed all the dirt from the sleeves!
Three chains, paraffin-boiling, kerposyn jars – no, no! I feel sorry for the time for this. Better ride extra two hours and spend an extra two rubles. By the way, Ashanov’s wet wipes are great for daily quick chain cleaning. The chain after them just shines.
Pampering is all, show off and show off. Do we ride or save the transmission? Chain – consumables. In order to break through and wear less stars, you need to buy the cheapest one and follow the sensible people and follow it. And Kotovsky recommends lubrication here, Squirt, praises not in vain.
I thought to try. Then he let it go. I realized that I do not want to spend time-power, since the savings in my case are very small.
Run is not a marathon, the conditions are quite mild. I clean it without fanaticism but regularly (with fanaticism it happens but much less often). As a result, the last KMC was replaced after 4 thousand just because I changed the cassette and decided on a new cassette a new circuit. And so there is no wear and a half, lies as a spare. At the current BBB, about 5 thousand have also been passed and are also quite alive. If you smear the cost of the chain and lubricant over the entire period for which I spend them, it turns out that I (forgive) toilet paper and then spend more.
And then what is the point for me to keep all these kerosene tinctures of chains in an apartment? Once in 300-500 km I washed it to shine at the dacha, and then just do not be lazy upon arrival in the courtyard to spend a minute, brush away what has gathered in a day.
True, I emphasize, this is in my riding mode. I would go for shit or really long races and not home-work-LDP, I think I would reconsider (maybe).
3 chains with paraffin on
“I am changing the chains”, “I am not changing the chains”. I approached the question more dramatically than all? I just change hardets entirely. And don’t think about any other replacement. &# 128521;
The main thing is to KATE! … And not theoretically … &# 128521; Those who ride a lot will always find their own individual method, which is suitable for them specifically under specific operating conditions …)
If the chain (along with the transmission) does not bathe daily in the mud, as brutal fans of mud pokatushek usually do (why?), It’s enough 2-3 times per season (depending on mileage) to wash it with gasoline in a typewriter (not to remove necessarily, the machine normally rinses), dry and thoroughly miss the mark. Then wipe – smear as needed. The Shimanovskiy HT chain with “medium-dirty” and “medium-dusty” operating conditions with such care is exactly enough for 4000 km. Naturally, you can buy a more expensive and non-resistant chain, Shimanovskaya is just an example, I just put them on. I don’t measure wear, if I feel that the chain has become badly working, I take it off and put a new one on it. After wear of 3 chains I change the cassette. All these dances with a tambourine around the chain may prolong its resource but not by much.
She skated three chains last season, I really like it. I ride a bike to work, and so it turns out that in a week I hit 300 km. Therefore, I personally find it very convenient to change the chains once every 300 (sometimes, 500 km),
The summer season to ride in three chains is convenient, but now winter in Moscow with its abundance of reagents breaks all the charts for replacing chains and stars. Last winter I managed to kill for 500 km not only a cassette with a chain, but also a rear hub.
I go to 3 chains (albeit on the road), I change every 300-600 km. First of all, because I am a paraffinist, and this mileage coincides with my lubrication interval. It does not matter how many chains to cook – three or one, the cost of time is the same. It is very convenient when the time is right – hung up the “old” on the hook and put it on the bike, clean, greased.
I observe with great and purely theoretical interest how crazy ideas (and seemingly innocuous) like paraffin cooking and “3 chains” take possession of the masses. &# 128578; ! This is how various “shiz” are spread. &# 128578; ! If anything, medical experience – 35 years. I am not a psychiatrist by profession. but in general – every doctor is a little psychiatrist &# 128578; (and a little pathologist &# 128578; )… Diploma ЖВ 731031 0т
Maybe this is wrong, but I broke the track mileage chains. But then I rinse the chain in good time and imbue it with high-quality oil (12-14 hours with a good layer of lubricant – then wipe dry). The cassette + chain kit serves a little more than two years, I ride all year round and along any roads and paths, that is, reagents from the asphalt and liquid clay get into the thaw / after rains and dry sand.
Rode his bike
Personally, my experience shows that any attempt to touch the chain only reduces the service life. Immediately make a reservation: my style is trekking, I mean, 20-30 km / h without any “uphill standing”. At first, when I first started, I also bother with cleaning / lubrication, as a result – two chains each flew in a year. Then he spat on this case, and the most deshmansky set (a cassette for 300 and a pair of chains of 90 each) left almost six thousand. All that I did was occasionally sprinkled with WD’s, no litol or — God forbid — grafit. If you are the owner of not so cheap consumables, but a bit more expensive, you can safely forget about all this shaking around the chain, ordinary sand and reagents from asphalt will not eat this steel before ≈3 thousand, and at medium loads, the hood just for this kilometer and reaches the red zone.
And what about the alternative to a conventional chain – a carbon belt, set and forget about wear?
Basil, I am sure that the carbon belt does not stretch? I think, even if you put a gearbox transmission like a locomotive (in passenger cars), I think it still does not last forever …
Somewhere in the mid-1980s, I bought a used Soviet inexpensive sports bike (2 stars in front and 7-5 seems to be in the back), tires — pipes — after a road builder and even a road builder with 3-5 stars behind — it was a bullet and very light. Immediately I put the speedometer with odometer (then the only option that was sold in stores – it was mechanical, checked the speed in seconds and kilometer posts – almost exactly) – 60% around the city and 30% outside the city – in 3 years wrapped around
Gears, chains and timing belts a lot of copies broken on auto-forums. 1. IMHO – the most reliable and durable (and having the least wear) are gears, if they are helical and silent (but silence depends on the accuracy of manufacturing, in the USSR sometimes it was not very). Japanese TD42, MAZ (where the Yaroslavl Yaroslavl engines always put, and Minsk engines for MTZ), GAZ-24 (Volga) passenger cars — reliable gears were used everywhere — and they were everlasting. As far as I remember, at GAZ 1, there was a large gear and there was a plastic one, and it was sold as a spare part; Next came the Mercedes W124 – there the chain was stretched, but went
2. Manufacturers to replace gears with chains and then with belts – based on lower noise. Maybe a little noise reduction is – I compared the chain VAZ-2101 and the belt VAZ-2105 – almost no difference at all at idle, and even more so if the gas is given.
3. Then, auto manufacturers seeing the interest of buyers (their interest in long service chains) made the chain engines again, but the chain did not make a 2-row powerful one like Merc, AZLK and VAZ, but thin single and almost the size of a bicycle. And these chains were already torn, and not jumped by 300-500tk, and were torn by 60-80tk, while the previous engines on the belt of the same volume went without breaking the timing belt
4. In general, on a bicycle, in principle, it is possible to put a belt variator, and in view of the small transmitted power, it should serve for a long time and is convenient. And it is very easy to adjust the preload of the variator spring (who is weaker – the lever on the steering wheel and less effort on the pedals, who the athlete is more) And the transfer to the rear wheel is either a chain or a belt or a perpetual gimbal (using bevel gears like Urals) .
5. And as it was rightly noted by the author, nekokotrye chains are 3-5 times more wear-resistant, even if they are not removed at all – more expensive, but there is also a more expensive and more wear-resistant metal.
6. Gears – have the lowest resistance and the best efficiency and they are in a constant oil bath. Especially if they are made of vyskolegirovannogo metal, and therefore small in size, and therefore a little slow down in the swab bath, in contrast to the large gears
… this season 2017 decided to roll in three chains. Rolled 540km, put the second chain and on 6.7 stars SCROLL under load. What the hell? System, cassette, chains, all new.