This note is for the smallest novice cyclists who have never encountered a puncture. I guarantee – you will come across, so read, remember, and better – practice at home.
In general, the frequency of punctures depends on three factors. Littered roads, rider weight and rubber density. It is difficult to influence the first and second, but tires should be chosen carefully.
Not always heavy and oak tires have good puncture resistance. This is especially true of those rubber products of the Chinese bicycle industry, which are installed on bicycle models sold for 3000 rubles in supermarkets. Weigh like a tank, and pierced by the first glass.
There is such a parameter of tires as TPI, and the more this number is, the tighter the rubber – the thinner the thread of its weaving. By itself, the density does not guarantee puncture, therefore, manufacturers sometimes add a puncture layer.
In general, oddly enough, the most difficult thing is to pierce a highway tire, for the whole time of owning a road racer, I pierced a couple of times. But on the mountain one hundred times – and this is literally. The fact is that in proportion road tires have a much higher density and stiffness compared to mtb rubber.
There is another such phenomenon: with mileage, the tire seems to be “installed”, its density decreases and it begins to pierce. despite the fact that the tread is still quite normal. Perhaps this is more pronounced under heavy cyclists, since I most often heard it from them.
Some put antiprokolnye tape glued to the inside of the tire. This can in some sense save from small glasses, but personally I have not had experience with such tapes. Sealant poured into the chamber, most often turns out to be useless.
Here I do not consider the issue of tubeless wheels, as this is beyond the scope of the article for beginners. Maybe talk about this separately another time.
From the point of view of the likelihood of a puncture, there is most likely no difference, whether the tire is maxed or lowered. But there is still such a thing as breakdown of the camera or “snakebite”. When the pressure in the tire is small, it is necessary to hit the wheel on the sharp edge (pothole in the asphalt, curb), as the camera will be punched around the rim. On it are formed two cuts, similar to the trail from the teeth of a snake. This is especially true of rubber on road bikes and hybrids.
Therefore, try to keep tire pressure close to the maximum, if you drive on asphalt. Regarding the ground – a separate conversation, there is the opposite, for better adhesion with the surface, preferably less pressure. The values of maximum and minimum pressure are written on board tires and marked most often in PSI.
So, let’s move on to practice. We pierced, and the wheel is rapidly losing air. It is impossible to go further, otherwise the rim will shake the chamber and the tire. Stop, remove the wheel. Get the assembler, spare chamber and pump.
How to change the camera
one. Let off all the air, pressing the nipple valve with something (if the Presta nipple is a bicycle valve, you must first unscrew it counterclockwise). Then, with your fingers, squeeze the tire to pull it off the seats, walk around the entire circumference.
2. One montage lift tire edge and hook the spatula to the knitting needle.
3. Take the second montazhki, and not far from the first pick up the tire, pulling it out. Continue to pull out a little bit until the tire is free, and then just run the assembly over the inside of the remaining circle, completely pulling one edge of the tire out.
4. Now you have camera access. Look at how it is fastened in the hole, for sure there is a fastening nut, twist it, but do not lose it. Carefully pull the camera out into the light.
5. Now it is very important with the greatest attention. explore the inside and outside tires for glass, nails, spikes and wire stuck in it. How many times was it that the cyclist, without looking, put up a new camera, and not having time to drive off even a hundred meters, received a puncture again. Therefore, with your bare hand, walk carefully and slowly across the entire inner surface.
6. Pump some air into the new chamber. so that it takes a round shape, and install in the tire. First push the nipple into the hole.
7 Now refuel the tire in the rim, it is done by hand, little by little. In the end, you may have a small part that does not give in, then you need to resort to installation. But – be careful not to tear the camera.
8. Done – all you have to do is screw the fastening nut onto the nipple and pump up the wheel. On some rims, the tire does not want to properly stand on its seat, then in the process of pumping you will have to knead it with your fingers.
I hope, on the way to the house you will not fall another glass. &# 128578; But after all, the shells sometimes fall into one funnel, so let’s figure out how to glue the punctured camera. To do this, you need to carry a small box with a repair kit (glue, sandpaper, patches) with you.
How to seal the camera
one. Find a puncture site. To do this at home is simple: you need to fill the sink with water and immerse the pumped chamber there – bubbles will immediately run out of the hole. In the field, everything is more complicated. I usually pump the camera harder and listen with my ear where the air comes from. Locate the hole with water drops from a flask.
2 Wipe the puncture site dry, and then clean it with an emery cloth and a brush that are in the repair kit.
3 Apply an even and thin layer of glue to the patch. (and can be on camera too). Wait five minutes for the glue to dry.
4. Gently attach a patch and squeeze your fingers for a couple of minutes. Then, after waiting another five minutes, put the camera in the tire and pump it up. No need to put the maximum pressure, the patch must stand up completely.
Ps. A little subtlety – on almost all tires there is an arrow indicating the direction of travel. You need to follow this rule, because the efficiency of the tread pattern depends on it.
If everything is done correctly, then the reliability of such a sealed camera is absolute. I had cameras with 5-8 patches and nothing – no problem.
In addition to the puncture and snakebite, the chambers tend to collapse with age. This can result in cracks, with the result that one day it will explode. A nipple can come off just as it befell me twice in one day (!) In a bicycle trip through France.
Therefore every three to four years it makes sense to change cameras to new ones, even if externally they look not damaged.
Consider the fact that there are rims in which only Presta nipples (bicycle) fit, and if you buy a camera with a Schrader nipple (automobile), this will be an unpleasant surprise on the road.
For all the time I did not manage to find mtb tires, which I could mark as puncture resistant. I blame my great weight on this because all my light scatallae had an order of magnitude less punctures than I did.
If someone is looking for a narrow 26 ″ rubber for pure highway use, then I recommend Continental Ultra Gator Skin, on it, my wife drove half of Europe without a single puncture.
I was more fortunate with tires for road racing and hybrids. Continetal produces very good rubber. I can only praise their road racing tires Continental grand prix and training (can be used on hybrids) Continental 4 Season. Remarkable workmanship and resource.
For a hybrid, I can definitely recommend Continental Sport Contact (I use myself) and Travel Contact. Also heard extremely good reviews about tire life Schwalbe marathon, they generally people go around the globe.
Buy tires and cameras at the best price possible in the best online bicycle stores Wiggle and Chain Reaction Cycles , I have been buying there constantly since 2006. Do not forget to put Russia in the list of countries, then the price will immediately decrease by the amount of European VAT.
No taxes or customs fees need to be paid, the parcel comes in 1-2 weeks. And if you connect your friends and pick up an order for 5000 rubles, the delivery is free. Read about my experience with these stores. Highly recommend.
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