The basic pattern of the dress contains several patterns: – Pattern straight skirt; – Pattern of the bodice with the breast and waist undercuts.
From this it follows that having built a dress, you will have several patterns on hand! Which is very practical and saves time. The main thing is to build it correctly, and preferably without difficulties, right? To do this, read the instructions and watch the video tutorial at the end of the article.
After you build the pattern, on your computer you will see something like the following:
The pattern is constructed using the program NanoCAD, how to work with it, see here
I will say in advance that over time, in different models (dresses, shirts, vests and
Building a dress base pattern
The construction of the dress base pattern is carried out according to the Italian method, which is notable for its ease of construction and perfect fit … Yes, yes, you have probably been tortured by these words, but this is true! To build a pattern of the base of the dress we need to take measurements.
See the lesson “Taking measurements by the Italian method of cutting”:
However, in this lesson, I decided to experiment and use standard measurements taken from here. This is a table of typical sizes of a figure according to Italian sizes. Therefore, if someone sizes coincided with mine, be careful, well, or be careful …
Be sure to pay attention to the table increments! If we didn’t need them in underwear, then it is very important to give an increase, as the fabric is already less elastic, and there should always be comfort and freedom of movement. If you look closely at the table, we see that dresses, blouses, pants and skirts go under 1 degree. And jackets, vests, jackets under 2. But the difference between them is not big. That is why if you take the average values, you can sew everything at once from this pattern … But here you need an instinct and logic, and of course the model of the future clothing itself. For example, for a light blouse, small gains are needed, but for a tight jacket with a lining, a little more is required. Therefore, to save time, to train in the construction, I advise you to immediately build several patterns with different
The construction of the dress base pattern is divided into several stages:
CONSTRUCTION OF THE PATTERN DRESS BACK: BACK
is being built in the upper left corner of the new document in nanocad.
1. We build the top of the dress: neck, shoulder line, and armhole for the sleeve. All these actions are very similar to the bodice without vytochek. But do not think to retake it, as we add gains. By the way, when I recorded the video, I made one mistake, but which I later remembered … Once again I duplicate the waist width formula: ¼ waist circumference + 1 cm. + 3 cm (per bore) + ¼ increase along the waistline.
2. It is also important to remove the length of the dress, the average value. Since with each new product we measure this measure anew, and adjust the pattern of the base to this length. I took an average of about 105 cm.
3. Tali groove is built in the middle of the waist line. That is, draw a perpendicular up and down to the armhole line and thigh line, respectively. From the armhole line down 2 cm, from the waist line down about 14 cm.
CONSTRUCTING A PATTERN OF A DRESS: FRONT HALF.
The construction starts from the right corner. To find this point, you need to postpone a distance from the first point of construction (left upper), which is equal to the chest half-grip + increase along the chest line. Also, let me remind you, if the formula looks like this: х Waist girth + Increase, then you need to count in the following form: ¼ Waist girth + ¼ Increment from the table. In our case:
½ chest circumference + ½ increase along the chest line.
I will not write further, just watch the video and repeat it, but with your own standards and calculations.