Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are natural biological substances found in sugar cane, fruits, sour milk and old wine. Used in cosmetology to provide better exfoliation. They weaken the connection between the scales of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, accelerating the natural process of their separation.
Due to the active use of ANA-acids in cosmetology, they are also called beauty acids. In cosmetology, fruit acids are used in the formulation of external agents and as peels.
Fruit acid peeling
The concentration of solutions of ANA-acids
- Solutions of AHA-acids of low and medium concentration (10–30%) act at the level of the epidermis. They weaken the connection between the horny scales, providing exfoliation of the stratum corneum, and thereby promote the growth of new cells and accelerate skin renewal. In addition, they stimulate the synthesis of collagen, elastin and other components of the intercellular substance, reduce the thickness of the stratum corneum, moisturize and rejuvenate the skin, improve complexion. These peels can be done regularly (with oily skin – up to 2 times a week).
- More concentrated solutions (30–70%) cause desquamation of the epidermis and affect the dermis, improving the texture and tone of the skin and providing a powerful rejuvenating effect. Such peelings are done several times a year, and they must be carried out by a specialist.
- To remove scars and scars using AHA-acid in a concentration of 50-70%.
- In beauty salons and clinics use products with a concentration of fruit acids of at least 20-30%. For self-home use allowed drugs in which the concentration of AHA-acids is less than 10%. If the cosmetic contains less than 5% AHA-acid, it will not have a noticeable effect on the skin, and its use can hardly be considered effective.
Acids most commonly used in ANA cosmetics:
Tartaric (or tartaric) acid
WHY USE ANA?
Peculiarities of the use of ANA-acids for different skin types:
Oily skin prone to acne
- Due to the effect of exfoliation, the ANA cleanses the excretory ducts of the sebaceous glands, preventing their blockage and the formation of acne.
- Using ANA reduces the likelihood of cicatricial complications of acne.
- The use of ANA facilitates penetration into the skin of the active components of acne treatment agents.
- Due to the action of the ANA, the old flakes are effectively removed from the surface of the stratum corneum, which facilitates the penetration of moisturizers into the skin.
- The uniform peeling provided by the ANA significantly softens rough, dry skin, restores normal skin pattern.
- Due to the peeling effect of ANA, the removal of horny layers, which prevent the penetration of nutrients necessary for the regeneration and protection of mature skin, occurs.
- ANA removes the layers of horny scales, coarsening the skin pattern and emphasizing wrinkles, as well as prevent their appearance.
- Exfoliation of dead horny scales stimulates the processes of normal regeneration of skin cells.
- Due to the peeling action of the ANA, the more intensive removal of horny scales from the skin surface occurs, which facilitates the penetration of bleaching preparations into it and increases their effectiveness.
- In addition to the peeling effect, citric and tartaric (tartaric) acids have a whitening effect.
- By removing dead hyperpigmented horny scales, ANA provide a progressive reduction of hyperpigmentation.
Importance of pH when using ANA-acids
The severity of a particular clinical effect depends largely on the actual amount of AHA that achieves its goal. The fact is that, once in the skin, AHAs are distributed unevenly in it and can selectively accumulate in certain places, for example, concentrate in the near-receptor fluid.
Studies have shown that when applying a cosmetic preparation containing 8% glycolic acid and having a pH of 3,
It has been established that in the region of pH